Utila, Honduras
Riding roads less travelled
Alberta resident Jeff Sherren describes his motorcycle tour of Utila Island
A series of events led me to Utila, one of the Bay Islands in Honduras, in March 2008. On the ferry to the island I sat beside Johan Urbina, an instructor at the Utila Dive Center. He told me about some of the courses offered at the facility and said he had a truck waiting to take people to their dive shop. I decided to go with him and that was the beginning of several weeks on Utila.
Tropical breeze: Jeff Sherren cruises along a dirt path on the north side of Utila Island.—photo by Kiva Lacterman
In general, Utila is not a destination for motorcyclists—it is a destination for divers; however, you can rent a bike and explore the island. The main roads in Utila are cement but most of the island roads are dirt mixed with dried coral. They are best traversed on bike, quad or the local favourite: golf carts sporting knobby balloon tires and a lift kit.
While I was on the island, Lance Bodden, who is the manager of a local motorcycle repair shop, rented me a 1994 XL 125 for the day for 760 lempiras, or $40 US. Also available are other bikes around 200-cc’s as well as golf carts. Lance let me choose from three dusty helmets. I was the first person to ever use one, and so I took two—one for my passenger.
If you are riding solo, you can see the entire island in about two and a half hours—double that if you put two grown adults on a 125.
The scenic route
On my tour, I took an off-road excursion to Pumpkin Hill Beach—a clean, isolated spot. There are some deep ruts on the path—signs of the last rainy season—but they were easy to cross. As we cruised along, I thought about the Canadian winter back home and I felt a smile form on my face. It was nearly 30°C and there I was on a dirt path riding parallel to a beach with the ocean crashing against coral on one side and the dominating, jungle-covered Pumpkin Hill on the other.
Another stop was at Swanish Bay—an area that has had the misfortune of being at the receiving end of some local oceanic currents. These currents have brought a mountain of plastic bottles and other rubbish with them.
Other points of interest
The ride from town to Swanish Bay will bring you past some farms and the island’s diesel-burning power station where you can stop to look at the new construction—likely spawned by foreign investment.
The roads near the airport provide an amusing time as you can watch several species of lizards and many iguanas darting across the path. The coral walls on this side also make for some spectacular scenes when confronted by mammoth waves.
The other road leaving town will bring you to Slumberland. This is where the always busy public beach is located. There are several little food stands here and typically, they are very good and reasonably priced. This can be said of all the island’s street food—the most notable being the nightly chicken served at the crossroad to the ferry dock.
The diving on Utila is brilliant, some of the best in the world if you believe the advertisements. And the island is a great place to dive with the elusive whale sharks.
Resources: • Lance Bodden Rentals: boddenlance@yahoo.com • Utila Dive Center: www.utiladivecenter.com • Cross Creek Dive Center: www.crosscreekutila.com
Motorcycle key contacts


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